The End of the Road

Ivy and Rich at our last grocery run. How convenient that liquor can also be purchased at the grocery store.

One of my last looks at the Pacific Coast before heading into San Francisco.

I loved the rocky coast and the sound of crashing water.

The End. I had just crossed the Golden Gate Bridge. A very bitter sweet trip. I felt proud and sad at the same time. I've had so much fun on this adventure; the people I met, and the stories they have shared will stay with me forever. I feel very fortunate for the opportunities I have been given and the love that people have so generously bestowed to me. I know that this journey will be the first of many more to come. It is only a matter of time before I will begin planning my next adventure. Destination still unknown, date to be determined, likelihood 100%.

Ray and Rich, the two co-leaders from the last two weeks of my adventure.

Ray (Mountain Man) is the most patient person I have ever met. He was encouraging and hands-off at the same time. He shared his wisdom of the road and of life freely and without judgment. I will always remember him for his kindness and his quick smile.

Rich (R) brought so much fun and laughter to the ride, that I felt like I was on a traveling comedy show. Rich is quick witted, with an incredible memory for TV and movie one liners. I laughed more in the past two weeks, than I have in the past few years. Rich was just what the doctor ordered! Rich helped me see the lighter side of the world, and to enjoy each day without worrying too much about tomorrow.


Things I'm looking forward to doing or things I won't miss from the road:

1. I'm looking forward to taking a shower with a towel that wasn't purchased at REI. The micro fiber towels are both absorbent, light weight, and easily packed. However, they are not warm and fuzzy like the plush cotton towels I have at home.
   
2. I won't miss having to use a flash light to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night.
   
3. I won't miss having to restrict my fluids in the evening hours in an attempt at having to avoid using a flash light to go the bathroom in the middle of the night.
4. I won't miss having to wear several layers of clothing to bed at night: hat, mittens, socks, thermal underwear and a fleece jacket.
   
5. I'm looking forward to seeing my children, hugging them and telling them how much I love them.
   

As a last parting word, I would again like to thank everyone who encouraged me throughout this adventure. To my children, Shannon, Robbie and Tommy. I missed you all so much! Thank you to my parents and my siblings for their concern and for their unwavering belief that I could successfully complete this adventure. My heart goes out to all of my friends who thought I was crazy to attempt this adventure, but kept their apprehension to themselves. To all of my friends that knew I wasn't crazy when I began planning this bike ride, I appreciate your loyalty and devotion. To all of my coworkers, thank you for taking on my share of the work over the past 4 weeks. I owe you one!

We must be willing to let go of the life we have planned
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.

Avenue of the Giants

Rich and Tim using the jaws of life to free a bike of a broken lock. The local EMT/Fire Dept. lent us the heavy duty cutters after Tim's lock malfunctioned. We used the opportunity for some good laughs. Imagine us dressing as cyclist to steal a really good bike. The EMT played along with our spoof and we all rolled off with smiles on our faces. PS. Rich (on the left) is one of the tour leaders and an accomplice to the crime.

Just in case you might think I am sitting on a beach in Florida eating bonbons. Here I am at the Pacific coast just before I decided to shed my shoes and go in for a brief swim. The aquatic adventure was cut short when I noticed a dead seal floating just yards from where I was about to dive in head first. Oh, and by the way, the Pacific Ocean is very cold. Now I know why all of the surfers wear head to toe wet suits. Hypothermia is a quick threat to ones health.

In the Avenue of the Giants, Redwood National Forest. That's me hugging a tree so that you can get an idea of how big the Redwoods are. We rode almost 30 miles through the forest of these natural wonders. The only way to do this National Forest justice is to tour it by bike or by foot. The aroma of the forest is so powerful and soothing. The cool air is refreshing, the sounds of the birds are enchanting and the shadows that are created from filtered light make you believe you're in heaven. It is truly a magical experience.

The Avenue of the Giants. I will never forget the magic of this day. We are so lucky to have the beauty of this natural wonder available to us. If you ever have the opportunity to visit northern California, you really must try to set aside time to visit this National Park. I promise, you won't be disappointed!

Some of the oddity of the road

Using the bathroom at 6 a.m. with a small visitor to keep me company. A tree frog found some comfort in the humid area of the sink. I did let out a small shriek at the sight of this amphibian so early in the morning. (I am not in the habit of taking my camera to the toilet, I made a return trip to catch this photo.)

Someone with a good sense of humor named this road on our bike route. It was appropriately named, because there were seven hills from hell that we had to climb, and I thought about selling my soul to the devil for them to end.

In Oregon, you can cut your own Christmas tree or cut a deal with a bare chested mermaid, both at the same location.

A sign that bikers love. Two miles of steep hills where there is always a chance you will pass trucks who are restricted to 30 mph's but cyclists can go as fast as they dare. Let it be known that I reached speeds of 38 mph's on this descent.

I continue to have a fantastic time riding through the countryside with wonderful friends. I have become so used to waking with the thought of mounting a bicycle, that anything beyond this simple task feels like work.

Sorry for the long delay

I don't know what the date or day is. I have been away from a computer for too long. We have been cycling many miles per day and the small towns that we have been riding through do not have libraries.
I have so many things to up date you on, but unfortunately today I am on cook duty and must get to camp asap in order to have dinner ready for the group by 6:00.
I just wanted you all to know that I am alive, well, and still having the time of my life.
Tomorrow, we ride only 50 miles and I don't have to cook, so I will try to find a library and some spare time to up date you on all of the happenings from the west coast.
Hope you are all well and good!
Tish

A day in the life of a cycle tourist.

The Oregon coast just north of Bandon.

Another beautiful view, as seen by the saddle of a bike.

Ray and Russ, watching the waves come in.

Thursday, September 17th

Here is a brief snap shot of what my days are like;

Wake at 2 am., 3 am., and/or 4 am due to foraging animals (raccoons, skunks, or bears) or by territorial creatures crying in the night (coyotes or great horned owls) all creatures confirmed by Park Rangers sightings.

The other thing that may wake me in the night is a full bladder or a series of night sweets. (I really should have planned this tour a few years ago to avoid some of the menopausal symptoms common to a women my age.

Fully awake by 7-8 am, take down tent and pack up gear. Load up the bike and eat a quick breakfast (powerbar or banana). Ideally I want to be on the bike before it gets too hot or too windy.

I generally try to ride for 10-15 miles, depending on the weather conditions and the terrain before stopping for a true breakfast or lunch, usually in a local diner. Refuel and fill water bottles. Ride another 20-30 miles and repeat food stop for dinner. Ride the last 10-20 miles into a camp ground. Unpack, shower, star gaze, read, rest and repeat in the morning.

One specific note on showing at camp grounds:

It costs $1.00 to get clean. 3.5 minutes of water costs 50 cents. The water is not always hot, and is seldom warm. In the beginning of the adventure, I would deposit my 4 quarters and hope to complete a clean sweep of the body before I found myself standing in full lather and no more quarters to dispense.

Have no fear, I am a quick learner.

I now deposit two quarters, get fully wet and completely lathered, and scrub my feet and legs (these parts are especially dirty from all of the sand and dust of the road). I might shave my legs if necessary, so far only twice in two weeks (yuk!) After, and only after these tasks are complete, do I deposit the last two quarters for a full 3.5 minutes of rinse.

I can tell you, 7 minutes in the shower is not enough time to wash off 60 miles of road grime and 8 hours of sweat.

Taking a shower with no time limit and an abundance of warm flowing water is just one of the things I look forward to indulging in once I return home.

Just call me Cook-e

Soaking wet from head to toe. The waitress asked us to go into the bathroom to dry off because we were dripping all over the table. I partially disrobed in the restroom, washed my feet and socks in the sink and dried my hair on the paper towels as best as I could. We looked like something the cat would have dragged in.

Wednesday, September 16th

Oh what a difference a day makes. We woke to ominous clouds and discovered just 3 miles out of camp that rain gear was going to be a must. As beautiful as yesterday was, today was at the opposite end of the spectrum. It rained for almost 50 miles, and not just a sprinkling rain. At times I just had to laugh at how we must have looked riding up the hills in a pouring rain. Just another day on the bike.

One of our duties on the tour is to cook dinner for the group. And knowing that my motto is, "just do it" I signed up for the second night. We happen to be camping just up the street from a local fish market, so at the last minute, my co-cook and I decided to serve fresh tuna and salmon. The two fish were accompanied with roasted potatoes and toasted french bread. Dinner was a great success and we even had left overs for breakfast.

I'm having such a great time on this second half of the ride. My next challenge is to uncover a way to do this type of adventure on a more regular basis, say perhaps annually.

Westward bound-again

Back on the coast and loving it!! Five riders from the group: Ivy, Me, Deb, Cathi, Michelle and Tim.

Tuesday, September 15th

After spending a fun evening getting to know all of the tour participants, we eagerly set off at the crack of dawn. Well, closer to 8:00, but a bit earlier than what I am used to. We back tracked on the same road that I came into Eugene just 3 days ago. I remember having to climb most of the way into Eugene, and now I know why. The route in reverse was much more enjoyable. Of the 68 miles I rode today, it seemed as though 40 of those miles were in a downward coasting position.

The sun shone and the winds were for the most part favorable. Everyone in the group really enjoyed this first day. It could not have been more fun.

I am surprised at how good it feels to be back in the saddle after taking 3 days off. On those three days off, I still did manage to put on 84 miles going to and from the library (33 miles round trip) and the laundry mat. So I guess a "day off" is all relative.

I have identified two major pluses to being in a group tour:

#1 there is a lot of laughter from sun up to well into the evening hours. Already on our first day, the teasing and joking that is going on is light-hearted and dispensed with a touch of caring.

#2 there is so much food to eat, that I don't have to worry about finding myself at a camp ground without having first consumed dinner. If I have lost any weight up to this point, it will surely be regained in a matter of days.

The Gang is all here!

Our camp site as everyone gathers and begins getting acquainted. There are 13 riders and 2 leaders. Everyone seems really nice and quite able to meet the challenges that lie ahead.

Adventure Cycling is leading the tour and will take care of transporting our gear from camp site to camp site. I can't wait to unload my bike of the 30 lbs I have been carrying. It will feel strange to be so lite in the saddle after spending the past 12 days loaded down.

Monday, September 14th.

All of the participants have gathered at the park and we a getting to know each other by sharing cycling stories. Our two leaders, Ray and Rich, have fantastic attitudes about touring with a group and I think we will spend lots of time laughing and playing practical jokes on each other.

After spending the past two days be myself, I am looking forward to sharing the road with some friends. I know that if I need alone time, I will have the opportunity to ride ahead of the group and "get away." It will also be nice to share meals and conversations with other people.

We head back out to the coast in the morning. I will re-ride the same 70 miles that I rode on Friday, just in reverse. It's a crazy life, but someone needs to do it. Night all.

Moving inland

Friday, September 11th.
Today I leave the coast to head inland to Eugene. I will meet up with the tour group on Sunday and we will have one day of "orientation" before heading back on the same road I came in on. The weather is hot, 93 degrees, and I am sad to be leaving the ocean behind. I rode 73 miles to a camp ground on an artificial lake. Actually it is a reservoir. It has a concrete boarder similar to a swimming pool, only it is huge! Easily as big as some of the bays on Lake Minnetonka, in fact there are three marina's on the reservoir and on Friday evening I watched a sailing regatta with 22 boats participating.
Let me share with you what I have discovered with the fine state of Oregon. The government workers love rules. The love telling you about their rules. The love up holding the rules. They love the power of the rules.
After riding 73 miles into camp on Friday evening, I inquired about a small spot to pitch my tent. Now mind you, I have no car, no RV and no boat trailer attached to said bike. The rule following women behind the window of the camp ground office kindly instructed me that the camp ground was full and that I would have to bike another 23 miles to the next closest camp ground. As you can all imagine, this instruction did not go over too well with my current, dehydrated state of mind. I informed her again that all I needed was a small parcel, perhaps under a tree and out of the way of the other "campers." She quietly sat down at her desk and pulled out the rule book. She began to recite rules 5-9 which stated that no persons would be allowed to camp in an Oregon camp ground that was found to be full. At this point, I was almost in tears. I wanted to lash out at both the rule book and the women who in her short sightedness could not find an ounce of kindness or the willingness to look the other way. As I pleaded with "the witch" a kind gentleman came up to the window to inform us that one of his friends would not be able to join them at the camp ground that night and that site 33 was open if anyone should be looking for a place to stay. Thank you God! I still ended up placing my tent under a tree, leaving the entire camp site open.
The other rule that Oregon employees like to steadfastly hold on to is a one hour time limit on computer use at their public libraries. In order to send out these blogs, I have to locate a library in the towns I am riding through. I register as an out of town guest, sign into the computer with a guest pass code and quickly try to remember what I have done on the previous days. You are permitted to one hour of computer use per day, and not a minute more. Once I was the only patron in the entire library, other than the hired staff, and yet still they would not permit me to use the computer for more than an hour. Honestly! No one else was there. I asked if I could come back in an hour after I ate lunch, and they still said no. Now, I have never been a rule follower, just ask my siblings, parents or any of the teachers I have had over the past several decades. I hate rules. They confine the imagination, and generally serve little purpose as far as I am concerned. So you can imagine my displeasure in running up against Oregon's governmental mentality.
I think I need to go soak my head in the lake to cool off a bit.
I will spend the next three days relaxing by the artificial lake, reading, blogging and preparing for the second half of the ride; from Eugene, OR to San Francisco.
Keep those comments coming, they really help boost my motivation and keep me connect to home.

Last day on the coast- for now

Thursday, September 10th
Newport to Florence OR.
Today I covered the most ground in the shortest period of time. The winds were favorable and the hills were minimal; 71 miles of continuous coast line. Now that most of the schools are back in session, the traffic has lessened to a very tolerable level. Of course there are still plenty of big rig RV's, but for the most part they now have room to move to the far left section of the roadway and not forcing us bike riders to pitch into the ditch.
I connected up with Luke just before heading into camp. We spent the evening talking about our journeys and watched the sun set once again on the Pacific Ocean. Luke begins school in just 4 days, so he is catching a train in the morning and heading home. I admire his spirit, for a kid of only 19 years, he has a good head on his shoulders and a very kind heart.
No pictures from this portion of the ride because I have not had a chance to recharge my camera battery. Suzie was kind enough to overnight ship a battery charger to my next destination, so I will be able to catch more of the sights with a lens in the near future.
That's all for today. Good night.

One very spoiled biker

Suzie and I outside of the B&B (the boat) we stayed at. I am one spoiled biker!

After a great nights sleep and a warm breakfast of french toast, I am ready to resume my journey south. Oh yeh, that bridge in the background, it was terrifying to ride across. There is no shoulder to the bridge, so you either had to ride in 55 mph traffic (not advised) or you could walk your bike on the elevated (1 1/2 feet above the road surface) sidewalk. I began walking on the sidewalk, but was impatient at the rate of progress. So of course I straddled the bike and rode the one mile of bridge hoping and praying that the winds from the ocean would not push me into on-coming traffic. It was both scary and exhilarating at the same time. Looking back at the bridge after I had completed the crossing, I realized how crazy I was to risk that ride. Suzie was quick to chastise me for risking life and limb! But isn't that what sisters are for?

I'm off and rolling after spending the day with my lovely and kind sister Sue. Thank you so much my dear kid sister. It was such a special treat to spend time with you.

Wednesday, September 9th

I had a short day in the saddle today, only 42 miles into Newport, OR. I met up with my younger sister Suzie (she lives in Portland) for a surprise nights stay at a bed and breakfast. The B&B happened to be a recommissioned old boat. It was the quaintest location on the water, in the bay of Newport, just 1/2 mile from the Pacific. It was so nice to see a family member, and such a treat for Sue and I to have time without children in tow. We spent the day roaming the bay of Newport, watching a couple of guys crabbing and listening to the seals converse in loud, low tones.

Sue can appreciate the bike ride more than most individuals, as she rode her bike cross country many years ago with more gear and poorer maps.

It was sad saying good bye to Sue. I'm not sure when we will have the opportunity to connect again.

I love you kid, and appreciate you kindness, warmth and support. Thanks for spoiling me when I needed it the most.

Oh the people you meet

Yet another beautiful view of the Oregon coast line. With every turn the sites and sounds of the water are that much more spectacular. I will never tire of the view, the sounds, the smells of the water.

Luke and Mike just before breaking camp in the morning. That's Luke's mountain bike with all of his gear that he snuck out of the house with. Luke was the ultimate is "hey, let's go for a ride" and Mike, the professional vagabond, who carried all of his worldly possessions on a small bike trailer.

A family from Baltimore who I lunched with on and off for three days. Here, Peter (the dad) is fixing another one of my flat tires. Peter owns 6 bike shops in the Baltimore area and was ever so kind in helping me get back on the road. He and his wife, along with two of their children and a couple of friends were heading down the coast at about the same speed as I was. We shared camp for three nights. They could not have been more kind or inviting. For all of you who thought this was a dangerous excursion, I feel far safer out on the road, than I do in MSP.

My adoptive family, Pete and his sons and Tricia.

Wednesday, September 9th

I fully expected to meet interesting and a bit "off the wall" folks along this journey, and today was no exception. In camp last night I pitched a tent along with three other cyclists, one traveling north and two traveling south along the same route that I have planned on touring. One of the "boys" Luke is a sophomore at Central Washington U. His school year doesn't start for another two weeks and he found himself home with the "rents" and all of his friends already departed for their respective schools. His parents created a long "to do" list seeing that Luke would have lots of free time on his hands. Not wanting to participate in slave labor, Luke loaded up his mountain bike with a sleeping bag and a back pack and headed down the drive way. It was as simple as that; no plans, no map, very little money. Luke's only requirement was to back home by September 14th, giving himself 2 days to get ready for the up coming college semester. Oh, the freedom of being young and carefree.

Another of the campers, George, was traveling from Seattle to San Francisco with his surf board strapped to his bike in a side-car manner. George was stopping along the trail hitting all of the best wave coves, experiencing the best of Oregon's surf. Because of the weight and cumbersome appendage, George was only able to cycle 40 miles per day. However, he shared some amazing tales of great waves and beautiful beaches. I loved George's ability to take one day at a time and his attitude of enjoying every single minute of natures best.

The third camper held top prize for uniqueness. Mike tauts himself as being a professional vagabond. He even had business cards made up so that we could follow his journeys around the world. http://www.fulltimevagabond.com/ Mike is from a small town in Iowa, graduated from school in L.A. and has spent the past several years trying not to become gamefully employed, yet working very hard at traveling around the world. So far, he has been successful at this endeavor for the past 18 months. Mike shared his philosophy of living on very little material possessions and experience the most of what life has to offer. I actually found this thought process very interesting, seeing that I will live for 4 weeks with only 30 lbs of "stuff" and feeling very content with so little possessions. Of the four of us, I was the only one with a full time job. I almost felt a bit out of place. We shared lots of laughs at the oddity of our choices and how so many people think we are a bit "loose" in the mind.

"We gain strength, and courage, and confidence by each experience in which we really stop to look fear in the face . . . we must do that which we think we cannot." Eleanor Roosevelt.

So I end today with the hopes that each of you will look outside of what you do, day in and day out. Try something new. Attempt to think differently. Be open to the opportunities and possibilities that harbor with in your soul. You have infinite choices and gifts that can, and should be shared with others. Be kind, respectful and joyful. Be thankful for what you have been given. I am grateful for your love!!!

Clear skies and open waters

Tuesday, September 8th
I've been finding beautiful camp grounds on the shores of the Pacific Ocean for the past several nights. It is such a wonderful experience to watch the sun set on the ocean after spending 7-8 hours in the saddle. By 8pm, I am showered, fed and ready for bed. I am only able to read about ten pages of my book every night before I just can't keep my eyes open for another minute. Exhaustion is a great sleeping pill.
Today I was blessed with my first full day crystal blue skies and strong tail winds. My speeds averaged 16 miles per hour even with the hills and I was able to end the day with 62 miles of road behind me and still feeling good. And if that wasn't good enough, I spent 45 minutes eating lunch at a rest stop while watching a whale and her calf feed not more than 200 yards off shore. It was a spectacular sight as I watched them moved about feeding and resting in the cove.
Even though I have passed nearly 200 miles of shore line, I still find the sight of sand and sun stunning! I only wish I had more time to relax by the water. I have been tempted to jump in, but the waters are about 55 degrees and not nearly as inviting when you are waist deep.
The packing and unpacking of my gear has become an art form and a science. My gear is stowed in a way that makes it easy to access the necessities, clean and dirty laundry is conveniently separated, and energy giving food extremely handy. I can be up and out of bed and ready to ride in less that 40 minutes, which means a few extra minutes of sleep.
Unfortunately I will not be able to post pictures on this post. My camera has run out of battery power and I won't be able to recharge it for another day. However, I will add more photos soon as soon as I can.
I hope you are all well and good. I think of you often, wondering what everyone is doing. I am grateful for all of the comments people have posted on this blog. It is so fun to hear your take on this crazy adventure. Take care and I'll "talk" to you again soon.
Tish

On the road again

A rock formation at Cannon Beach, from the bottom of the climb.

Looking down at Cannon Beach after a very long climb.

Looking down on Cape Lookout State Park. I camped just inside the forest cover.

Monday, September 7th

After two days in the hostel with too many travelers in too cramped space, Craig and I headed out of Seaside in hopes of making up some miles. However, I want to take a steady, slow pace and Craig wanted to ride at a faster clip, so we thanked each other for the companionship and said good bye. I find myself riding alone and loving it.

I now have the opportunity to stop and take pictures of wonderful scenery. I find myself stopping often, yet still making good time. The days off at the hostel have suited me well. I have more energy and a better outlook for the days ahead.

I rode 65 miles this day, and climbed the highest hill on the Oregon coast, more than 1000 vertical feet. I know Chris and Mark will laugh at the height, but for a girl from the Midwest, they appear like mountains out of the mist. I have now climbed so many hills, that I no longer cuss as I approach an incline. (this used to be a common practice) I simply take a few deep breathes, slowly downshift and begin pedaling. I had been keeping track of the number of hills I had to walk up, and the number of hills that I reached 25+ miles/hour on the downward side, however I do not plan on walking any more hills and the number of 25+ hills has grown to be more than I can keep track of. Hills = 2, Tish = too many to count, victory!

I spent the night in Cape Lookout State Park with 22 other cycle tourists, including Craig and a family from Baltimore who I have seen throughout the day. I have been told that this is the most favored time to be cycling the Oregon coast; the weather is moderate, a majority of the tourist have left the area, and the camp grounds are open and less expensive. It feels both wonderful and safer to be on the road with so many other cyclists. I know that if I should need assistance with anything, someone else will gladly/kindly help me.

I sit and watch the sun set on the west from the shores of the Pacific Ocean. My legs are tired, my eyes are heavy, but my heart is filled with peace. Good night everyone.

Hello Oregon

A view from atop the 3 mile climb heading into Astoria, looking down at Kim and Steve's place.

Again, looking back on the Columbia River, saying good bye to Washington and hello to Oregon.

The Bowpicker, some of the best Fish-n-chips I've ever had.

A statue of Lewis and Clark in Seaside, OR. Lewis and Clark finished their journey in this area.

Walking the beach in Seaside. The views were spectacular! I will always be amazed at the vastness of sand and water.

Wednesday, September 5th

Today I packed away my Washington map and pulled out the Oregon map. Even though I only rode for 4 days in Washington, it still feels like I have passed a small mile-stone as I move into another state. Craig and I took the ferry from Puget Island over the Columbia River into Oregon midday. Our ride began with a 3 mile climb along the Columbia bank, leveled off for a few more miles and then had a lovely downward decent into Astoria.

We ate at Bowpicker, a place that Kim and Steve recommended, which is famous for fish and chips. We waited in line for over 30 minutes, and were not disappointed. If you ever find yourself in Astoria, do grab some fish and chips.

From Astoria we had to cross a bridge that made me thankful for good life insurance. The bridge had no shoulder for biking and the traffic roared by at 55 miles/hour. If that wasn't bad enough, the wind was blowing so hard that even on flat road, I could barely move at 7 miles/hour. If I wasn't so white knuckled holding on to the handle bars, I would have had my hands in folded prayer.

Forecast for the next two days predicted heavy rains and gale force winds. And as much as I love the outdoors, I'm not stupid. We found a hostel and booked rooms for two days. A bit of down time gave me an opportunity to wash me clothes and recharge my mind and body. Craig and I took in the sights and walked the beaches in between rain showers. The rest has been welled deserved.

Things I have become accustomed to/good at:

1. Wearing dirty clothes
2. Not wearing make up :)
3. Praying at the sound of approaching RV's
4. Peeing in the woods without getting my shoes wet, or touching poison ivy
5. Setting up my tent and sleeping bag
6. Asking strangers for directions
7. Being thankful for every minute on the road!

The end of the road in Washington

Kim and Steve's home on Puget Island over looking the Columbia River. I slept in the gabled roof room watching the full moon float in and out of the clouds.

A look out of the back of Kim and Steve's kitchen window. The Columbia River

The most gracious hosts, Kim and Steve! Thanks guys for a fantastic evening! Craig and I really appreciated you hospitality.

Myself and Craig heading out after staying with Kim and Steve for the evening.

Friday, September 4th

I heard from many of you regarding my quick lack of tracking the date. Not only did I not know the date for my last posting, I also got the month wrong. I have not seen a TV, heard a radio,picked up a newspaper or surfed the web since I departed MSP on August 28th. Current events are not part of my current vocabulary. The librarian has been kind enough to provide me with a calendar, to help me recall events.

Today, Craig and I rode to the boarder of Washington and Oregon, staying at Kim and Steve's home on Puget Island, WA. Kim and Steve are a couple who open their home to cyclist from around the world. We had warm showers, queen size beds and free laundry services. Kim is a master gardener who treated us to a farm fresh dinner that will be remembered as one of the best meals of the trip. Tomorrow we take a ferry across the Columbia River and enter Oregon.

Today's cycling was again, a real treat! Speeds were up, and the hills were mostly down. This is my 4th day of riding and I can feel my legs getting stronger and my will power lasting longer that the inclines. Just as Lance Armstrong has pointed out in his book, "It's not about the bike," I feel the same way about this ride. This ride has nothing to do with the bike or bike riding. My journey is to explore the possibilities of my emotional strength, trying something that I have only dreamed about and being content with what ever the outcome is. Even on my toughest days of walking up hills, progressing at incredibly slow speeds and facing strong head winds, I still manage to keep a smile on my face and gratitude in my heart.

I am exceedingly thankful to family and friends who have so kindly encouraged me to think big and take a risk. So, to end this day, I encourage all of you to stop talking about what you want to do and start planning to do it. You have the ability to make things great things happen! Share your life with others and you will be blessed double-fold. This much I know is true. I am living it everyday here on the open road.

Two dogs and a Kiwi

Thursday, August ? I have forgotten what the date is.
Just as my other two days have started off with some unexpected challenges, today was no different. This day was not a matter of walking up a hill, my challenges today were (supposedly) man's best friend. Man's best friend is not a bikers best friend! I can tell you that black German Shepard's do not have the stamina to run for 18 miles per hour for more than a quarter of a mile. Also, pit bulls will stop you dead in your tracks and won't you let you cross their territory for quite some time. I had to wait for a car to approach in order to pass the bit bull. I rode past the dog on the opposite side of the car, holding onto the door frame for almost a quarter of a mile. I am so grateful for the generosity of the people I have met. Everyone has been most kind; providing me with detailed directions, alternative (less hilly) routes, rest spots and food.
I was approximately two hours into today's ride when I had another flat, this time it was thankfully on the front tire and with my current experience of changing flats, was fixed in no time at all. As I resumed my ride, I was approached from behind by another cyclist, the first I have seen so far this trip. As it turns out, he and I were both riding the same bike, Surly Long Haul Trucker. I bike I purchased especially for this trip. Craig is from New Zealand and is spending 6 weeks riding from Van Couver to L.A. We rode together for the next 50 miles into camp at Lewis and Clark State Park. After riding for two days by myself, pacing at only 8-10 miles per hour, it is very refreshing to cycle with someone who can pull you along at 14-16 miles per hour.
Craig is a part time Emergency Room physician in New Zealand, working only as much as is required to accumulate enough money to set off on another adventure. He has shared stories about journeys across the globe that I can only dream about. He is an excellent cyclist, sharing tips on maximizing effort and minimizing energy. Both of us enjoyed the company and plan to cycle into Astoria together.
Today's total: Hills 2, Tish 4. With Craig's help, I didn't walk up a single hill today.

You're not in Kansas anymore

Wednesday, September 2nd
I am fully aware that I am not in the Midwest any longer. The slopes are longer and steeper than anything I have ever encountered!
I left camp at a decent time and began day two with hopes of putting more miles behind me. Some how I always run into trouble just a few miles after I begin. Today is was a wrong turn that had me again, walking up a very steep hill for .6 of a mile. I've got to get better at reading these maps!
The other lesson that I had a chance to practice today was changing the rear tire on my bike. Twice I had to unload the bike of all my gear and change a flat. By the second time, my speed at fixing the flat had greatly decreased. I might even have enough skill to get a second job at a bike shop after I have finished this journey.
The final 1/3rd of the day found me in flat terrain with little wind, reminding me of cycling the Midwest.
I have decided to keep a running tally of the number of hills I have to walk up vs. the number of times I reach or exceed 25 miles per hour on the down hill. To date: Hills - 2 Tish - 3.
There is something to be said about spending entire days all by yourself. I have been able to clear my head of most stresses and am enjoying mindless wandering. I hope this continues.
Tonight I am staying at a Hostel in Elma, WA. I have a queen size bed with two down pillows and it is costing me only $4 more that the camp ground. Oh, the luxury of it all.
Tomorrow I head into the longest day of the journey, 60 miles. I fall asleep praying that the rains will wait and the hills will flatten.
Thank you to everyone who has posted comments to the blog. Your words are welcomed and heart warming. I am truly grateful for all of your thoughts and prayers.

Into the Mist

The view from my dining room table, a picnic bench next to my tent.

Lunch spot where I enjoyed peace before the storm.

Heading out on my trusty Burly bike.

My good friend Jess and I before saying good bye at the ferry gates.

Sleeping among the mossed covered trees.

Tuesday, August 1st

Into the mist. . . and the rain. . . and the hills. . . and the detours and the road closures.

I left Seattle this afternoon via the ferry to Bremerton, WA. It was a peaceful, contemplative float across Puget Sound. I arrived in Bremerton hungry and anxious. Enjoyed a wonderful warmed sandwich and chia tea before securing all of my gear and mounting the bike. I wasn't 3 miles into the ride before I missed a turn and found myself walking up the first of what I assume will be many exceedingly steep hills. It has been a long time since I have walked up a hill with my bike. However, the degree of slope, the wet road and taking into account that I am still getting used to balancing 30 lbs of gear, left me no choice but to dismount and swallow some pride.

My luck wasn't to improve for several miles. I ran into closed roads and several detours that led me way off course. I ended up having to back track twice and asking for directions three times. This confusion and missteps cost me one hour of time and added 6 miles to the odometer. I was beginning to think I wouldn't make my first camp before nightfall.

Once I was righted onto the correct road, the clouds turned dark and the rain began to fall. At this same time, the roads leveled off and my speed dramatically increased. Faith was restored!

The final 8 miles of the day had me following Hood Canal to Twanoh State Park. I nestled my tent among the moss covered trees, took a very hot shower and ate dinner over looking the canal and a small mountain range as the sun shown down on me.

This first day of riding has taught me to be humble and patient. Two characteristics not high on my personality profile. I have a feeling that the road and terrain will continue to educate me in ways I am unaccustomed to.

Whidbey Island

Whidby Island looking out over Deceptions Pass. Notice the fog lifting up and over the cliffs. It was amazing watching the fog roll into the bay.

Another picture of Deception Pass while we climbed through a path in the State Park.

Luke, Pat and Jessica. Our picnic on Whidby Island

Sunday, August 30th

Today I reconnected with Jessica, a great friend I have known since high school. We, (Jess and I along with two friends, Pat and Luke) toured Whidbey Island, one of the many beautiful islands off the coast of northern Washington. I love the feeling of being surrounded by water, the gentle fog rolling among the fields and the sound of boats moving in and out of the bays and harbors. We picnicked in Fort Eby State Park, along the shores of Rosario Strait where the fog permitted only a brief glance of the water. The sound of fog horns reassured us that indeed we were next to the water.

After our picnic we ventured north to Deception Pass State Park, hiked among the rock outcroppings and skipped stones into the bay. It was a wonderful relaxing day, exploring the outdoors and enjoying casual conversations in gentle surroundings.

I am feeling relaxed and yet energized to begin the ride. I have decided to move my start line to the Seattle area instead of heading south out of Vancouver. Just like that I have cut out 139 miles of biking. Spending time with Jess was much more important that putting a few extra miles on the bike. I am so thankful that we were able to connect and share updates of our hopes and dreams.

And so to all of those friends of ours, scattered around the globe, that we haven't seen or talked to for far too long; pick up the phone, email them, write them a letter and let them know how much you care for them. Friendships are what bring valuable meaning to our lives. We should cherish these relationships for the strength, support and nurture that sustain us in good times and bad.

Jessica, thank you for being my friend. For teaching me lessons I could not have learned on my own and for sharing your knowledge and love.

The secret of health for body and mind is to live in the present moment wisely and earnestly. Buddha

Welcome to Seattle

Saturday, August 29th.
I rode into Seattle this afternoon via Amtrak. (For a map of the trip, click here It was a glorious 40 hour train ride through North Dakota (this portion of the trip occurred between the hours of 1:00-4:00 am, that is why I can say the trip was glorious) Montana, Idaho and Washington. I saw Glacier National Park and the Cascade Mountains in full sun light from the observation car with a play-by-play narration courtesy a volunteer Park Ranger.
If you have never traveled by train (this was my first time) I highly recommend it, at least once. I secured a sleeper car for privacy and to ensure I arrived rested for the bike ride. I lazily reclined with a book in one hand, a cold drink in the other (iced tea) and my mind wandering over the hills and byways of the great outdoors.
The clientle on the Amtrak are much different than the those flying the friendly skies. They might not all own a passport, but they are exceedingly kind and curious, wanting to know why you're on the train and where you are heading. I met several interesting people, including Brenda, a wonderful women from Whitefish, Montana who was traveling home with her two your children; Petra (5 yrs) and Issabel (3 yrs). I was placed at their dinning table on the first afternoon of our journey. The girls taught me how to play games their LeapFrog hand held electronic gizmo, and each colored me a picture to take on my bike ride. Brenda and I enjoyed talking about cycling, her husband was a professional mountain biker until just recently and she grew up in the minneapolis area. By the end of our meal and conversation, both girls were asleep, Petra in my lap and Issabel in Brenda's lap. I can't recall when the last time I have had a child fall asleep in my lap. I helped Brenda put the girls down for an afternoon siesta and I met up with them again for dinner that same evening.
After gathering all of my gear off the train, I am spending a few days with a close high school friend at her home in Bellevue, just east of downtown Seattle. There was still plently of day light after departing the train, so I headed out on my bike (well, what else did you expect me to do?) to explore this very bike friendly city. I rode to Gas Light Park and along many of the inlets from Lake Washington.
It feels wonderful to final arrive on the west coast, that much closer to my starting line.