Hello Oregon

A view from atop the 3 mile climb heading into Astoria, looking down at Kim and Steve's place.

Again, looking back on the Columbia River, saying good bye to Washington and hello to Oregon.

The Bowpicker, some of the best Fish-n-chips I've ever had.

A statue of Lewis and Clark in Seaside, OR. Lewis and Clark finished their journey in this area.

Walking the beach in Seaside. The views were spectacular! I will always be amazed at the vastness of sand and water.

Wednesday, September 5th

Today I packed away my Washington map and pulled out the Oregon map. Even though I only rode for 4 days in Washington, it still feels like I have passed a small mile-stone as I move into another state. Craig and I took the ferry from Puget Island over the Columbia River into Oregon midday. Our ride began with a 3 mile climb along the Columbia bank, leveled off for a few more miles and then had a lovely downward decent into Astoria.

We ate at Bowpicker, a place that Kim and Steve recommended, which is famous for fish and chips. We waited in line for over 30 minutes, and were not disappointed. If you ever find yourself in Astoria, do grab some fish and chips.

From Astoria we had to cross a bridge that made me thankful for good life insurance. The bridge had no shoulder for biking and the traffic roared by at 55 miles/hour. If that wasn't bad enough, the wind was blowing so hard that even on flat road, I could barely move at 7 miles/hour. If I wasn't so white knuckled holding on to the handle bars, I would have had my hands in folded prayer.

Forecast for the next two days predicted heavy rains and gale force winds. And as much as I love the outdoors, I'm not stupid. We found a hostel and booked rooms for two days. A bit of down time gave me an opportunity to wash me clothes and recharge my mind and body. Craig and I took in the sights and walked the beaches in between rain showers. The rest has been welled deserved.

Things I have become accustomed to/good at:

1. Wearing dirty clothes
2. Not wearing make up :)
3. Praying at the sound of approaching RV's
4. Peeing in the woods without getting my shoes wet, or touching poison ivy
5. Setting up my tent and sleeping bag
6. Asking strangers for directions
7. Being thankful for every minute on the road!

The end of the road in Washington

Kim and Steve's home on Puget Island over looking the Columbia River. I slept in the gabled roof room watching the full moon float in and out of the clouds.

A look out of the back of Kim and Steve's kitchen window. The Columbia River

The most gracious hosts, Kim and Steve! Thanks guys for a fantastic evening! Craig and I really appreciated you hospitality.

Myself and Craig heading out after staying with Kim and Steve for the evening.

Friday, September 4th

I heard from many of you regarding my quick lack of tracking the date. Not only did I not know the date for my last posting, I also got the month wrong. I have not seen a TV, heard a radio,picked up a newspaper or surfed the web since I departed MSP on August 28th. Current events are not part of my current vocabulary. The librarian has been kind enough to provide me with a calendar, to help me recall events.

Today, Craig and I rode to the boarder of Washington and Oregon, staying at Kim and Steve's home on Puget Island, WA. Kim and Steve are a couple who open their home to cyclist from around the world. We had warm showers, queen size beds and free laundry services. Kim is a master gardener who treated us to a farm fresh dinner that will be remembered as one of the best meals of the trip. Tomorrow we take a ferry across the Columbia River and enter Oregon.

Today's cycling was again, a real treat! Speeds were up, and the hills were mostly down. This is my 4th day of riding and I can feel my legs getting stronger and my will power lasting longer that the inclines. Just as Lance Armstrong has pointed out in his book, "It's not about the bike," I feel the same way about this ride. This ride has nothing to do with the bike or bike riding. My journey is to explore the possibilities of my emotional strength, trying something that I have only dreamed about and being content with what ever the outcome is. Even on my toughest days of walking up hills, progressing at incredibly slow speeds and facing strong head winds, I still manage to keep a smile on my face and gratitude in my heart.

I am exceedingly thankful to family and friends who have so kindly encouraged me to think big and take a risk. So, to end this day, I encourage all of you to stop talking about what you want to do and start planning to do it. You have the ability to make things great things happen! Share your life with others and you will be blessed double-fold. This much I know is true. I am living it everyday here on the open road.

Two dogs and a Kiwi

Thursday, August ? I have forgotten what the date is.
Just as my other two days have started off with some unexpected challenges, today was no different. This day was not a matter of walking up a hill, my challenges today were (supposedly) man's best friend. Man's best friend is not a bikers best friend! I can tell you that black German Shepard's do not have the stamina to run for 18 miles per hour for more than a quarter of a mile. Also, pit bulls will stop you dead in your tracks and won't you let you cross their territory for quite some time. I had to wait for a car to approach in order to pass the bit bull. I rode past the dog on the opposite side of the car, holding onto the door frame for almost a quarter of a mile. I am so grateful for the generosity of the people I have met. Everyone has been most kind; providing me with detailed directions, alternative (less hilly) routes, rest spots and food.
I was approximately two hours into today's ride when I had another flat, this time it was thankfully on the front tire and with my current experience of changing flats, was fixed in no time at all. As I resumed my ride, I was approached from behind by another cyclist, the first I have seen so far this trip. As it turns out, he and I were both riding the same bike, Surly Long Haul Trucker. I bike I purchased especially for this trip. Craig is from New Zealand and is spending 6 weeks riding from Van Couver to L.A. We rode together for the next 50 miles into camp at Lewis and Clark State Park. After riding for two days by myself, pacing at only 8-10 miles per hour, it is very refreshing to cycle with someone who can pull you along at 14-16 miles per hour.
Craig is a part time Emergency Room physician in New Zealand, working only as much as is required to accumulate enough money to set off on another adventure. He has shared stories about journeys across the globe that I can only dream about. He is an excellent cyclist, sharing tips on maximizing effort and minimizing energy. Both of us enjoyed the company and plan to cycle into Astoria together.
Today's total: Hills 2, Tish 4. With Craig's help, I didn't walk up a single hill today.

You're not in Kansas anymore

Wednesday, September 2nd
I am fully aware that I am not in the Midwest any longer. The slopes are longer and steeper than anything I have ever encountered!
I left camp at a decent time and began day two with hopes of putting more miles behind me. Some how I always run into trouble just a few miles after I begin. Today is was a wrong turn that had me again, walking up a very steep hill for .6 of a mile. I've got to get better at reading these maps!
The other lesson that I had a chance to practice today was changing the rear tire on my bike. Twice I had to unload the bike of all my gear and change a flat. By the second time, my speed at fixing the flat had greatly decreased. I might even have enough skill to get a second job at a bike shop after I have finished this journey.
The final 1/3rd of the day found me in flat terrain with little wind, reminding me of cycling the Midwest.
I have decided to keep a running tally of the number of hills I have to walk up vs. the number of times I reach or exceed 25 miles per hour on the down hill. To date: Hills - 2 Tish - 3.
There is something to be said about spending entire days all by yourself. I have been able to clear my head of most stresses and am enjoying mindless wandering. I hope this continues.
Tonight I am staying at a Hostel in Elma, WA. I have a queen size bed with two down pillows and it is costing me only $4 more that the camp ground. Oh, the luxury of it all.
Tomorrow I head into the longest day of the journey, 60 miles. I fall asleep praying that the rains will wait and the hills will flatten.
Thank you to everyone who has posted comments to the blog. Your words are welcomed and heart warming. I am truly grateful for all of your thoughts and prayers.

Into the Mist

The view from my dining room table, a picnic bench next to my tent.

Lunch spot where I enjoyed peace before the storm.

Heading out on my trusty Burly bike.

My good friend Jess and I before saying good bye at the ferry gates.

Sleeping among the mossed covered trees.

Tuesday, August 1st

Into the mist. . . and the rain. . . and the hills. . . and the detours and the road closures.

I left Seattle this afternoon via the ferry to Bremerton, WA. It was a peaceful, contemplative float across Puget Sound. I arrived in Bremerton hungry and anxious. Enjoyed a wonderful warmed sandwich and chia tea before securing all of my gear and mounting the bike. I wasn't 3 miles into the ride before I missed a turn and found myself walking up the first of what I assume will be many exceedingly steep hills. It has been a long time since I have walked up a hill with my bike. However, the degree of slope, the wet road and taking into account that I am still getting used to balancing 30 lbs of gear, left me no choice but to dismount and swallow some pride.

My luck wasn't to improve for several miles. I ran into closed roads and several detours that led me way off course. I ended up having to back track twice and asking for directions three times. This confusion and missteps cost me one hour of time and added 6 miles to the odometer. I was beginning to think I wouldn't make my first camp before nightfall.

Once I was righted onto the correct road, the clouds turned dark and the rain began to fall. At this same time, the roads leveled off and my speed dramatically increased. Faith was restored!

The final 8 miles of the day had me following Hood Canal to Twanoh State Park. I nestled my tent among the moss covered trees, took a very hot shower and ate dinner over looking the canal and a small mountain range as the sun shown down on me.

This first day of riding has taught me to be humble and patient. Two characteristics not high on my personality profile. I have a feeling that the road and terrain will continue to educate me in ways I am unaccustomed to.

Whidbey Island

Whidby Island looking out over Deceptions Pass. Notice the fog lifting up and over the cliffs. It was amazing watching the fog roll into the bay.

Another picture of Deception Pass while we climbed through a path in the State Park.

Luke, Pat and Jessica. Our picnic on Whidby Island

Sunday, August 30th

Today I reconnected with Jessica, a great friend I have known since high school. We, (Jess and I along with two friends, Pat and Luke) toured Whidbey Island, one of the many beautiful islands off the coast of northern Washington. I love the feeling of being surrounded by water, the gentle fog rolling among the fields and the sound of boats moving in and out of the bays and harbors. We picnicked in Fort Eby State Park, along the shores of Rosario Strait where the fog permitted only a brief glance of the water. The sound of fog horns reassured us that indeed we were next to the water.

After our picnic we ventured north to Deception Pass State Park, hiked among the rock outcroppings and skipped stones into the bay. It was a wonderful relaxing day, exploring the outdoors and enjoying casual conversations in gentle surroundings.

I am feeling relaxed and yet energized to begin the ride. I have decided to move my start line to the Seattle area instead of heading south out of Vancouver. Just like that I have cut out 139 miles of biking. Spending time with Jess was much more important that putting a few extra miles on the bike. I am so thankful that we were able to connect and share updates of our hopes and dreams.

And so to all of those friends of ours, scattered around the globe, that we haven't seen or talked to for far too long; pick up the phone, email them, write them a letter and let them know how much you care for them. Friendships are what bring valuable meaning to our lives. We should cherish these relationships for the strength, support and nurture that sustain us in good times and bad.

Jessica, thank you for being my friend. For teaching me lessons I could not have learned on my own and for sharing your knowledge and love.

The secret of health for body and mind is to live in the present moment wisely and earnestly. Buddha

Welcome to Seattle

Saturday, August 29th.
I rode into Seattle this afternoon via Amtrak. (For a map of the trip, click here It was a glorious 40 hour train ride through North Dakota (this portion of the trip occurred between the hours of 1:00-4:00 am, that is why I can say the trip was glorious) Montana, Idaho and Washington. I saw Glacier National Park and the Cascade Mountains in full sun light from the observation car with a play-by-play narration courtesy a volunteer Park Ranger.
If you have never traveled by train (this was my first time) I highly recommend it, at least once. I secured a sleeper car for privacy and to ensure I arrived rested for the bike ride. I lazily reclined with a book in one hand, a cold drink in the other (iced tea) and my mind wandering over the hills and byways of the great outdoors.
The clientle on the Amtrak are much different than the those flying the friendly skies. They might not all own a passport, but they are exceedingly kind and curious, wanting to know why you're on the train and where you are heading. I met several interesting people, including Brenda, a wonderful women from Whitefish, Montana who was traveling home with her two your children; Petra (5 yrs) and Issabel (3 yrs). I was placed at their dinning table on the first afternoon of our journey. The girls taught me how to play games their LeapFrog hand held electronic gizmo, and each colored me a picture to take on my bike ride. Brenda and I enjoyed talking about cycling, her husband was a professional mountain biker until just recently and she grew up in the minneapolis area. By the end of our meal and conversation, both girls were asleep, Petra in my lap and Issabel in Brenda's lap. I can't recall when the last time I have had a child fall asleep in my lap. I helped Brenda put the girls down for an afternoon siesta and I met up with them again for dinner that same evening.
After gathering all of my gear off the train, I am spending a few days with a close high school friend at her home in Bellevue, just east of downtown Seattle. There was still plently of day light after departing the train, so I headed out on my bike (well, what else did you expect me to do?) to explore this very bike friendly city. I rode to Gas Light Park and along many of the inlets from Lake Washington.
It feels wonderful to final arrive on the west coast, that much closer to my starting line.